A Typical So-cal day

California. It just feels good to say it. Let me tell you, it feels even better to be here. After a term of go, go, go, it is nice to sit back and enjoy, Or to surf... A lot. We are staying three blocks from the break with our friend Eric, not a bad setup at all. We have the option to go to the beach pretty much whenever we want, but today is an especially flat surf day. Walking down to the beach I recieve a text from Eric. "San-o Beach in thirty, the waves are there."

We run back up, get ready and jump into the car. As we drive closer to San-o, the marine layer of haze starts to lift, and we arrive under perfect California sun. It is crazy. Although I've seen people parking each other in on powder days in Steamboat, this blows that out of the water - people are parking each other in at a surf break. Not just any break, this one goes on for miles. We find a parking spot at the very end of the break, suit up and paddle out to make our first run at it. The waves are perfect for my first day back. Strong enough to gain some speed, but crumbly with long rides. The first ride feels amazing. I paddle two strokes and am going strong, turning down the line. Hannah even catches her first waves. Before we know it, it is 2:30, and we havn't eaten lunch.

Since we are starving and know that Laguna will still be under a marine, we decide to cap off our special So-Cal surfing day with a stop at Pedros for some greasy tacos. By the time we return to the house, the world is spinning from exhaustion, and by 6:00 I wonder whether it is late enough to go to bed. The best!