like 22 stitches!
It's the Lorin way; I have to end every trip with some sort of calamity.
Not to ruin the ending, I'll start at the beginning of the day. It was beautiful; hence, we were stoked. On top of the that, the rumor was that the surf was going to pick up. Hence, extra stoke. If you didn't know this, since I am an engineering major and all, stoke + stoke = AWESOME.
We paddled out into the surf and caught rides right away, then got stuck on the inside of the wave set, fought our way back out and repeated. For three hours.
It is a crazy feeling to catch a wave, race back to the line up so as not to get crushed by incoming waves, see another set coming in, turn just in time to have the wave right on our tail, and catch it for a ride. Each ride is followed by the feeling of lead heavyness in our arms as we paddle for another wave, driven by desire to get one more ride. Finally, three hours in, we both feel like we might pass out if we don't get food, so we head in to fuel up.
Not to ruin the ending, I'll start at the beginning of the day. It was beautiful; hence, we were stoked. On top of the that, the rumor was that the surf was going to pick up. Hence, extra stoke. If you didn't know this, since I am an engineering major and all, stoke + stoke = AWESOME.
We paddled out into the surf and caught rides right away, then got stuck on the inside of the wave set, fought our way back out and repeated. For three hours.
It is a crazy feeling to catch a wave, race back to the line up so as not to get crushed by incoming waves, see another set coming in, turn just in time to have the wave right on our tail, and catch it for a ride. Each ride is followed by the feeling of lead heavyness in our arms as we paddle for another wave, driven by desire to get one more ride. Finally, three hours in, we both feel like we might pass out if we don't get food, so we head in to fuel up.
This is when the story gets interesting. We head back out to get another surf session, and the waves get weird You see, the swell at this point was shifting , so there ended up being two swells coming from opposite directions, converging on the break we were trying to surf. It was confusing, and we were tired.
I paddled to catch an incoming wave, and just by fluke, didn't have enough speed, nosed in and fell in front of my board. Almost every single ride in surfing ends with the surfer falling into the water. At every skill level it is pretty rare to not hit the water, when, well, surfing. So I fell in, no big deal, but my board caught in the wave, and I felt it hit me in the head. Not hard, per se, but enough that I wanted to take a breather back at the lineup. I turned my board and paddled back out, when Hannah asked me kind of worried, "Are you all right?! Yeah. You're bleeding."
"I'm bleeding? Oh, I guess I am bleeding. We better head in, huh?"
"Yeah!"
So we went in, and despite blood dripping down the front of my wetsuit, because blood + water = more blood, I rode a wave in.
I paddled to catch an incoming wave, and just by fluke, didn't have enough speed, nosed in and fell in front of my board. Almost every single ride in surfing ends with the surfer falling into the water. At every skill level it is pretty rare to not hit the water, when, well, surfing. So I fell in, no big deal, but my board caught in the wave, and I felt it hit me in the head. Not hard, per se, but enough that I wanted to take a breather back at the lineup. I turned my board and paddled back out, when Hannah asked me kind of worried, "Are you all right?! Yeah. You're bleeding."
"I'm bleeding? Oh, I guess I am bleeding. We better head in, huh?"
"Yeah!"
So we went in, and despite blood dripping down the front of my wetsuit, because blood + water = more blood, I rode a wave in.
From there the story get less interesting but still entertaining. We went from the break, hitched a ride to the urgent care center, went to the hospital ER, then shuttled with our awesome friend Jackie off to the plastic surgeon. By the end of the day, we were starving but still smiling.
Well that's it for spring break. A little bit of everything, including a few games of tag with our great host Eric and the kids.
Until next time, I think I'll dream of waves.