Well, I’m writing this after easing myself into a chair. My
feet are sore. I know. My feet? It’s funny – after seven weeks of living in New
England and wearing orthotics, barefoot really gives you a workout. Not just
barefoot, but barefoot walking, running and sup surfing. It all started out
with a sup surf lesson. An hour and a half of chasing small waves down, getting
pretty decent rides and even pointing it down the line, my instructor asked me
if I was getting tired. I flashed a giant smile and chased another wave down. I
stayed in the break long after he left. It may sound crazy, but the speed, spray,
and falls are like a powder ski day. On every wave.
By lunch time I was feeling slightly water logged and
teetered my way to a local organic taco bar with my family. Barefoot. After
dining on wild salmon tacos, we walked the town, then the beach, then the town
again. As the sup shop, Supco came into view, I knew I was getting back into the water. It was 3:00, another
perfect time to catch mid tide waves, so my brother and I changed into wet suits, grabbed
boards and ran. It was another sweet session, full of powerful strokes and
water.
Wrapping up an amazing day, we ate dinner with a beautiful sunset over the ocean. So today, I found out that even carrying your sup to and
from the surf can get you sore, but yesterday all I could feel was the pain in
my cheek muscles from smiling so hard.
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